Three-cheese souffles

1. Heat the oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6 and butter 4 small ramekins (about 200ml). Sprinkle Parmesan inside, turning each one until coated. Put the milk and bay leaves in a large saucepan over gentle heat, bring to the boil, then turn off the heat and leave to infuse for 15 minutes.
2. Lift out the bay leaves, add the butter and flour, and set back over low heat. Simmer very gently, stirring constantly with a balloon whisk, for about 6 minutes until you have a smooth, thick white sauce, working into the corners of the pan so it doesn't catch or go lumpy.
3. Tip the sauce into a large bowl and stir in the mustard powder, cayenne, Gruyère and egg yolks until well combined.
4. In a spotlessly clean bowl with a clean whisk, beat the egg whites just until peaks begin to form.
5. Fold the whites into the cheese sauce in three goes, folding rather than stirring to keep things light. Spoon the mix into the prepared ramekins.
6. Top each with a slice of goat's cheese, sit them on a baking tray, and bake for 20 to 25 minutes until risen and springy but cooked through.
7. Leave to cool, then run a knife around each one and turn them out. To get ahead, sit them upside down on a tray, cover with cling film, and chill for a few days or freeze for up to a month.
8. When you are ready to finish, heat the oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6. Sit the soufflés upside down in a shallow baking dish, top with the remaining goat's cheese slices, and pour over the cream so they don't dry out. Bake for 8 to 10 minutes until golden. Serve straight away with a simply dressed salad.

Tips from the ZestyPlate Kitchen

• Whisk the white sauce constantly as it thickens so it stays smooth and never catches.
• Take the egg whites only to soft peaks, then fold gently to keep all that air in.
• Leave a little room in the ramekins, since the souffles climb as they cook.
• The second bake is the clever part: make them days ahead, then finish with cream just before serving.